bizdegeziyoruz Izmir Food Guide.
Welcome to the vibrant culinary paradise of Izmir, where every bite is a symphony of flavors that will tantalize your taste buds and ignite your senses…
Known as a gastronomic rising star of Turkey, Izmir is a melting pot of diverse cultures, rich traditions, and mouthwatering delicacies. In this comprehensive Izmir food guide, we will take you on a delectable journey through the city’s culinary wonders. From sizzling street food to lavish seafood feasts, Izmir offers a wide range of culinary delights that will leave you mesmerized. Join us as we unravel the hidden gems, iconic dishes, and local flavors that make Izmir a food lover’s dream destination. Get ready to indulge in a gastronomic extravaganza that will leave you craving for more. So, grab your fork and get ready to savor the essence of Izmir’s culinary wonders.
Enjoy.
IZMIR FOOD GUIDE / CITY CENTER
KUMRU & GEVREK (Izmir’s special bakery products)
Place: Zeynel Ergin Gevrek Fırını
Description: Located in Konak/Alsancak, “Zeynel Ergin Gevrek Fırını” is a bakery with a rich history in Izmir. Renowned as one of the city’s oldest bakeries, it offers an exceptional experience with its freshly baked ‘kumru‘ and ‘gevrek‘. While waiting in the line, you have the opportunity to witness the fascinating process of creating these bakery delights. Originally established in 1880, this bakery was operated by a Greek family for nearly 80 years until it was eventually taken over by Zeynel Ergin. Since 1962, the Ergin family has continued to run this beloved establishment. Given its popularity, there is always a considerable queue of eager customers. When visiting Izmir, it is highly recommended to treat yourself to breakfast here at least once.
- Bizdegeziyoruz’s notes 1: I would like to clarify a point here, this ‘kumru’ is an uncooked sandwich mostly preferred in the mornings for a quick breakfast. The ingredients are cheese (Izmir Tulum cheese), tomato, green pepper and Izmir Kumru Bread. It is served cold. However, Izmir Kumru has a cooked version too (which is highly popular), by adding sausage, salami, cheese, tomatoes, and it is cooked on charcoal.
- Bizdegeziyoruz’s notes 2: In Turkey, Izmir’s bagel is called ‘gevrek’ and often mistaken with ‘simit’ (Traditional Turkish bagel). The Tatars, who migrated from Crimea to Izmir around 450 years ago, introduced the delicacy known as Gevrek. Over time, this pastry has evolved, with larger sizes and variations in ingredients compared to its original form. The key distinction between Gevrek and Simit lies in their respective baking processes. Simit is baked after being coated with molasses and sesame seeds, whereas Gevrek undergoes a unique preparation method. Gevrek is first dipped in a bowl of hot molasses, briefly fried, and then coated with sesame seeds before being baked. This process results in a crispier texture and a more delectable taste than Simit. Gevrek has become a popular snack, suitable not only for breakfast but also as a quick treat throughout the day. The people of Izmir are too conservative about the difference between simit and gevrek, if they hear someone in the queue of a bakery asking, ‘Can I have one ‘simit’? They immediately mock in a polite way asking:‘hello, where are you coming from?’ 🙂
Instagram Address: Zeynel Ergin Gevrek Fırını
BOYOZ & SÜBYE (a famous bakery product and a refreshing drink)
Bakery: Alsancak Dostlar Fırını
Description:Izmir’s traditional pastry known as boyoz has a rich history spanning nearly 500 years and has been a registered trademark since 2017. This delectable treat is made by baking circular portions of dough consisting of wheat flour, water, and salt. Boyoz holds a significant place in Izmir’s culinary culture, particularly as a popular choice for breakfast. In addition to the classic plain boyoz, a variety of flavorful options are available, including those with leek, eggplant, artichoke, cheese, herbs, and even sweet options like tahini for dessert. Street vendors throughout Izmir offer boyoz, making it easily accessible to locals and visitors alike.
The name “Boyoz” originates from the Spanish word “bollos,” meaning “little loaf.” Over time, the shape of boyoz has transitioned from square to its current round form. A traditional practice, some individuals enjoy pairing their boyoz with boiled eggs, a habit that emerged in the past. This practice, primarily adopted by the lower socio-economic classes, originated from the need for an additional protein source to provide satiety throughout the day during breakfast.
When we think of “boyoz,” the first bakery that comes to mind is Dostlar Fırını. Since 1983, this bakery has been delighting customers with freshly baked boyoz. Originally opened by Mustafa Akar, the bakery is now being run by the second generation of the same family. Located in Alsancak, Dostlar Bakery remains the ultimate destination for experiencing the authentic taste of traditional boyoz, cooked in a wood-fired oven and complemented by baked eggs.
In addition to boyoz, there is another forgotten gem from Sephardic cuisine that the locals of Izmir are familiar with: Sübye. This thick and sweet drink has a history of 500 years and is particularly enjoyed during the summer months. Crushed melon seeds are transformed into a paste and then filtered with a small amount of water. The result is a milky, refreshing beverage with a delightful melon aroma. Nowadays, Sübye is a rare find -but if you are lucky- you can still enjoy it at the longstanding local establishment, Alsancak Dostlar Bakery.
Web Site: alsancakdostlarfirini.com
Instagram Address: Alsancak Dostlar Boyoz Fırını
SÖĞÜŞ (Offal/cold cuts)
Place: Hisarönü Söğüşçüsü/Kemeraltı
Description: Sogus, a beloved street snack in Izmir, is renowned for its enticing flavors. Edible offal, including head meat, brain, tongue, and more, is skillfully blended with spices. This delectable mixture can either be wrapped in lavash bread for a portable treat or served on a plate as a generous portion. To enhance the experience, it is recommended to enjoy Sogus with refreshing accompaniments like ayran, turnip juice, or pickle juice. As a popular street food, sogus can be found on every corner. However, for the best and utmost cleanliness (freshness and safety), Hisarönü Söğüşçüsü stands out. This family-owned establishment has been serving sogus since 1975, beginning with a humble hand stall before evolving into the cozy shop it is today.
- Bizdegeziyoruz’ s notes 1: The location is also a bonus: it is situated in the heart of the historic centre, next to Kızlarağası Hanı in Kemeraltı (the old bazaar). During your Kemeraltı tour, you can taste this flavor here.
- Bizdegeziyoruz’ s notes 2: Optionally, add lots of cumin, chili peppers, parsley, tomatoes, and onions. Offal is eaten cooked but cold.
Instagram Address: Hisarönü Söğüşçüsü
ŞAMBALİ (a kind of dessert)
Place: Hisarönü Şambalicisi/Kemeraltı
Description: Originally from Syria, Şambali (Shambali), also known as Damascus cake, has gained immense popularity in Izmir over the years. This sweet treat is often sold by street vendors, neatly wrapped in wax papers. At its core, Şambali can be described as a sweet cake made with semolina, sugar, yogurt, and milk, resulting in a delightful combination of flavors and textures. For an authentic and unforgettable Şambali experience, the go-to destination is Hisarönü Şambalicisi, a small shop located in Kemeraltı. Since 1942, this establishment has been serving Şambali in the most exceptional manner. Whether you prefer the classic plain version or the creamy variation, this is the place to indulge in this renowned Izmir delicacy.
Instagram Address: Meşhur Hisarönü Şambalicisi
MİDYE DOLMA (stuffed mussels)
Place: Serkan Hamza Midye/ Inciraltı
Description:
A popular tradition in Izmir is the purchase of stuffed mussels from local street vendors, who skillfully carry them on a large tray atop their heads. Enjoying these street delicacies often involves standing and eating on the go. However, for those seeking a warmer and fresher experience, there is the option to dine at a modest mussel and seafood establishment. Serkan Hamza Midye is a well-known name in this regard, offering a shabby yet charming setting.
Serkan Hamza Midye takes pride in cultivating their own mussels in a dedicated mussel farm located in Urla. Their journey began in 1989 when they started serving mussels as street peddlers in Inciraltı/Balçova. Building on their success, they opened a restaurant in Inciraltı in 2014, conveniently situated near the very spot where they originally sold mussels as peddlers. This close proximity ensures that patrons can savor the same delectable mussels in a more comfortable environment while still embracing the nostalgic charm of the street food experience.
- Bizdegeziyoruz’s notes 1: It is thought that the stuffed mussel culture came from the people of Mardin who migrated Izmir. (There has been a lot of migration to the west due to reasons such as poverty and terrorism)
- Bizdegeziyoruz’s notes 2: Stuffed mussels and beer are great companions. Especially, preferred as an afternoon snack by the seaside.The people of Izmir eat mussels only by adding pepper.
Web Site: serkanhamza.com
Instagram Address: Serkan Hamza Midye
KOKOREÇ
Place: Asım Usta/ Çamdibi
Description: The people of Izmir are fond of offal. Kokoreç, a traditional Turkish dish, consists of seasoned lamb intestines that are skewered and cooked. It can be commonly found being sold by vendors throughout Izmir, especially during the nighttime. The preparation involves grilling the kokoreç over charcoal and then slicing it into bread, typically accompanied by a sprinkle of cumin.
While kokoreç is a beloved street delicacy in Izmir, ensuring its hygiene during preparation can be challenging. It is advisable to enjoy kokoreç at reputable establishments to ensure quality and safety. Asım Usta is a renowned figure in the kokoreç scene, having started manufacturing and selling it using a three-wheeled wheelbarrow back in 1960. Since then, he has established himself as a respected producer, offering a diverse range of recipes to cater to different tastes.
Web Site: kokorecciasimusta.com
Instagram Address: Kokoreççi Asım Usta
RAKI, FISH and APPETIZER
Place: Boğaziçi Restoran/ Üçkuyular
Description: Rakı, a potent Turkish alcoholic beverage flavored with anise, is renowned for its delightful pairing with seafood and appetizers. When it comes to indulging in a rich variety of seafood and delectable side dishes known as meze, Boğaziçi Restaurant stands out. This establishment, established in 2010, has become an iconic culinary destination in the city. Offering a harmonious balance between price and performance, the restaurant’s exceptional feature is its breathtaking view of the magnificent city of Izmir. It is an excellent choice for those seeking an elegant and upscale dining experience.
Among the must-try side dishes at Boğaziçi Restaurant are Şevketi Bostan, Atom, and Girit Ezme, each prepared with fresh local ingredients. As for the seafood, the grilled sea bass comes highly recommended. The combination of the flavorsome rakı, the delectable meze, and the tantalizing seafood creates a memorable dining experience that is sure to satisfy discerning palates.
Web Site: www.bogazicirestaurant.com.tr
Instagram Address: Restaurant Boğaziçi
ARTISAN RESTAURANTS
Place: Balmumu Lokanta/Alsancak
Description: Balmumu Lokanta in Alsancak is a refined artisan restaurant known for its local dishes cooked in large pots. Owned by Ahmet Güzelyağdöken, the restaurant showcases his passion for regional cuisine. With a focus on Aegean specialties, the menu offers unique dishes alongside daily creations using diverse ingredients. Ahmet Bey’s expertise extends to fish dishes, prepared using different techniques. The restaurant also features rare herb dishes and highlights like Alaşehir Kapama and Paça soup. Balmumu Lokanta is a must-visit for those seeking a taste of the rich cuisine of the region.
Instagram Address: Balmumu Lokanta
Place 2: Bizim Lokanta/ Kemeraltı
Description: Bizim Lokanta, run by the Davar brothers, is a cherished family tradition and a genuine artisan restaurant in İzmir’s Kemeraltı district. With a history of 39 years, their dishes exceed expectations, especially the fish soup cooked in a copper cauldron, known as a high-level delicacy. The menu also features specialty soups like tripe and duck soup, prepared with the utmost care and only served if the ingredients meet their high standards. The restaurant’s culinary offerings showcase exceptional taste, satisfying portions, and a dedication to using quality ingredients. In short, Bizim Lokanta is a must-visit destination for exceptional cuisine and a true artisan experience.
İZMİR BOMBA (a dessert)
Place: Çelebi Unlu Mamuller/Alsancak
Description: A patisserie opened by nine brothers from Mardin a decade ago has gained tremendous popularity in Izmir, particularly for its signature dessert called Bomba. Located on Alsancak Kıbrıs Şehitleri Street, the patisserie attracts a constant queue of eager customers throughout the day, all craving a taste of the Bomba dessert.
The story behind the dessert, shared by the patisserie’s manager, Orhan Çelebi, goes like this: “During a visit from a beloved family friend, we wanted to surprise him with a unique dessert. It was an impromptu creation, placed on the counter. A customer noticed it, took a bite, and loved it. He exclaimed, ‘This dessert is a bomb!’ Intrigued, he inquired about the dessert, and that’s when we decided to regularly make and name it ‘bomb’ in honor of his reaction. And so, the story of Bomba began.”
Instagram Address: Çelebi Unlu Mamulleri
TURKISH COFFEE
- Bizdegeziyoruz’s notes: After visiting the souvenir shops in Kızlarağası Inn/Konak, you can take a coffee break to relax, or if you wish, you can have fortune-telling in the coffee shops around the inn. The historical Kızlarağası Inn, where traditional Turkish coffees are cooked. Here we will come across Kahveciler Sokağı (Coffeehouses Street) decorated with evil eye beads. In Izmir’s historical Kemeraltı Bazaar, Turkish coffee is made with traditional methods but served in different ways. For coffee, I can recommend two coffee shops, one of which is more historical, and the other is famous for its cooking style and sherbet, although it has just opened.
Place 1: Acı Kahve
Description: It is located in the middle courtyard of the Kızlarağası Inn. Coffee is cooked in a brass, copper coffee pot and served with Turkish delight. Established in the Kızlarağası Inn, Acı Kahve is famous for serving Turkish coffee by cooking it in a coffee cup.
Acı Kahve in the courtyard of Kızlarağası Inn, which has been the busiest place in Kemeraltı since the 1700s, is the first choice of most Izmir residents. Traditional Turkish coffee served with Turkish delight with Gum Mastic is a frequent destination for those who want to relieve their shopping fatigue on wicker stools or those who want to meet in a familiar place and start shopping.
Instagram Address: Acı Kahve
Place 2: Kumda Kahve
Description: Coffee cooked in a coffee pot placed on hot sand in about 8-9 minutes requires a long and laborious process compared to other methods. It is preferred because it is a softer-tasting coffee. It is quite difficult to choose between the Ottoman sherbets served alongside the coffee. Offering coffee for 13 years, Kumda Kahve is the only place that combines traditional Ottoman sherbets such as tamarind with coffee aroma.
Instagram Address: Kumda Kahve
HELVA
Place: Mehmet Helvacı
Description: Upon stepping into this establishment, you’re instantly transported back to the early 1900s. Warmly welcoming you is İhsan Helvacı, a kind-hearted individual who has carried on the tradition of making halva for generations. Located in Basmane/Konak, this halva shop is among the oldest in the area. In addition to their delightful assortment of halva and Turkish delight, they also produce and sell traditional tahini. Take a moment to have a conversation with İhsan and indulge in the exquisite flavors of this remarkable place.
Instagram: 1928 Mehmet Helvacı
LOKMA
Place: Öztat Kardeşler
Description: Öztat Kardeşler has been delighting customers with their exquisite selection of desserts including ashure, baklava, burma, kadayif, lokma, gullaç, revani dessert, semolina dessert, and tulumba dessert.
This family-owned business, established by Hacı İbrahim Öztapacı in the early 20th century, has been passed down through generations and is now named after his son, Refik Öztapacı. Over the years, they have operated in various locations, including Havra Street in the 1950s, and currently, in a charming little shop on Anafartalar Street. Their desserts carry the tantalizing flavors and fragrances of traditional Ottoman sweets, leaving a lasting impression on your taste buds.
Web Site: www.oztatlokmaci.com
Instagram Address: Öztat Kardeşler
PIDE/LAHMACUN
Place: Numan Pide
Description: Ali and Aziz Numani brothers established this place in 1988. They are famous for cooking pide (the pita) in oak wood fire. It is a well-known pide place for the local people of Izmir.
Instagram Address: Numan Pide Kemeraltı
IZMIR FOOD GUIDE / URLA
AEGEAN REGION CUISINE
Place: Beğendik Abi
Description: The restaurant is famous for its olive oil dishes and serving local herbs. The owners of the place used to run a delicatessen. Later, they opened a meatball shop in Malgaca Bazaar (About 20 years ago). Later, the lady of the family got involved in the business with home cooking and they decided to turn it into a restaurant. The name “Begendik” is determined to be an interpreter for the feelings of those who eat the food afterwards. The ingredients of Begendik Abi Lokantası are mostly sourced from local products. About 30 dishes are cooked every day.
- Bizdegeziyoruz’s note: ‘Beğendik Abi’ means ‘we liked it, brother’. Such a good name to pick:)
Instagram Address: Beğendik Abi
KATMER & Çİ BÖREK (LOCAL PASTRY)
Place: Ege’nin Lale Katmercisi
Description: Katmer is a famous local delicacy of Urla. It is known to be cooked in the region since 1900s. This place is well known for freshly cooked pastries. If you are travelling to Urla, you should definitely taste Katmer. The most traditional one is the one with minced meat. Even though Çi Börek is not originated in Izmir, this place is highly popular with this delicacy, too.
Instagram Address: Egenin Lale Katmercisi
WINE ROUTE
In the past, Urla wines were renowned to such an extent that the Roman emperor, out of jealousy, ordered the vineyards to be destroyed. Over time, the viticulture tradition in Urla declined but has experienced a revival in recent years. To fully appreciate the journey, it is recommended to allocate some time to visit the vineyards and savor the wines that have received accolades in various global competitions. The vineyard vistas are particularly breathtaking in the afternoon, especially during sunset.
Place: Urla Şarapçılık (Urla Winery)
Description: Can Ortabaş established the Uzbaş Farm 15 years ago, which has now transformed into the Uzbaş Arberatoryum. Within this lush botanical haven, housing 1900 different plant species, we embark on a unique journey. Urla Winery Inc. Co., primarily dedicated to winemaking and viticulture, has been actively working for 15 years on revitalizing and diversifying the local grape varieties, as well as selecting noble international grapes, all within the grounds of the vineyard.
Web Site: www.urlasarapcilik.com.tr
Instagram Address: Urla Wines
LOCAL CHEF RESTAURANT
Place: Od Urla
Description: The famous local Chef Osman Sezener sets the place’s motto as from farm to table. He combines local ingredients with intriguing recipes, inviting you to gather at the fire. As of 2024, OD Urla holds 1 Michelin stars and has been awarded the Michelin Green Star for sustainability.
Web Site: odurla.com
Instagram Address: Od Urla
Place 2: Urla Vino Locale
Description: It is a well known chef restaurant, Chef Ozan Kumbasar’s. In the center of Urla Wine Route they have created a wine menu solely starring local grapes of the local producers. They have dynamic food menus that change every month. It will be a delightful night if you have time to enjoy this local fine dining restaurant. As of 2024, Urla Vino Locale holds 1 Michelin stars, Sommelier award and has been awarded the Michelin Green Star for sustainability.
Web Site: urlavinolocale.com
Instagram Address: Urla Vino Locale
IZMIR FOOD GUIDE / SEFERİHİSAR
ENGİNAR YEMEKLERİ (ARTICHOKE MEALS)
Place: Artemis Restaurant
Description: It can be described as an artichoke paradise. Almost every dish here is made with artichokes. There are artichoke fields all around this shabby restaurant. If the weather is suitable, you can have the delicious food with artichoke fields view at the terrace of the place. Specialties are: artichoke salad, fried artichokes, artichoke tarator, stuffed artichokes, roasted artichokes, artichoke dish with lamb meat and even artichoke dessert.
Instagram Address: Artemis Restaurant
You can also read our “Artemis Reataurant” article.
IZMIR FOOD GUIDE / ÇEŞME
ÇEŞME KUMRUSU
Kumru, whose history dates back to 150 years ago and was registered as Izmir Kumrusu by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism in 2017, is a sandwich prepared with Izmir Tulum cheese, cheddar, tomato, pepper, sausage and salami in a special bread. The bread, which is usually made from chickpea yeast, is named after this sandwich because it resembles a dove bird (Kumru means dove bird in Turkish) thanks to its shape, which is large in the middle and thin on the tip.
Place 1: Kumrucu Şevki
Description: Kumrucu Şevki became one of the symbols of Çeşme. Kumrucu Şevki, who has been one of the few kumru places of Izmir since 1974, has made his name known all over Turkey. It serves kumru with its own bread.
Place 2: Kumrucu Hüseyin
Description: Kumrucu Hüseyin, the genius behind the famous “Kumru” sandwich, revolutionized Izmir’s culinary scene by transforming traditional bread into a delectable sandwich. Inspired during his military service, Hüseyin Pekmen introduced the concept of stuffing kumru bread with cheese and sausage, turning it into a beloved sandwich name. Collaborating with his family members who were skilled food engineers, Hüseyin Bey developed an additive-free bread using chickpea yeast and specialty flour, ensuring its long-lasting freshness. When pan-fried, this remarkable bread springs back to life, creating a mouthwatering and unforgettable Kumru experience.
DESSERTS WITH MASTIC GUM
Place: İmren Alaçatı (Imren Halva and Desserts House)
Description: Thessaloniki immigrant Hasan Usta, who settled in Alaçatı after the War of Independence; He married Ülfet Hanım, who was from Thessaloniki and settled in Alaçatı after the Exchange Treaty. This couple started this business in 1940s. The family that makes it a profession to develop the profession of confectionery from grandfather to grandchild; Today, Imren Halva House continues to add to its reputation with its sweets and delicious meals.
Web Site: imrenalacati.com
Instagram Address: Alaçatı İmren
ICE CREAM
Place: Rumeli Pastanesi
Description: Hüseyin Mersin and his wife Semra Mersin, together with his sons Ali and Osman Mersin, continue to serve all the natural flavors of Rumeli Patisserie, which was established by Tatlıcı Osman Mersin in 1945.
During the production of natural ice cream with a mixture of Salt-Ice and fruit, when one day Osman Mersin realizes that there is no vanilla left and he cannot add it to his plain ice cream, he tries mastic gum, which is abundant at home in Çeşme, in ice cream for the first time in the world, and both the locals and the customers from Istanbul and Izmir who come on holiday love this ice cream. Thus, mastic ice cream was born in this shop.
Web Site: www.rumelidondurma.com.tr
Instagram Address: Rumeli Pastanesi
IZMIR FOOD GUIDE BONUS: PLACES TO VISIT WHILE DOING FOOD TOUR
- Kemeraltı (Kemeraltı Historical Bazaar)
- İzmir Saat Kulesi (Izmir Clock Tower)
- Havra Sokağı (Synagogue Street)
- Kızlarağası Hanı (Kızlarağası Inn)
- Tarihi Asansör (The Historical Elevator)
- İzmir Agorası (Smyrna Agora Ruins)
- Kordon (Alsancak seashore)
- Urla Sanat Sokağı (Urla Arts Street)
- Urla Arasta ve Malgaca Pazarı (Urla Arasta Bazaar & Malgaca Bazaar)
- Alaçatı Sokakları (Alaçatı Urban Protected Area)
- Sığacık Organik Pazar (Sığacık Organic Bazaar)
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For our Bergama, Izmir tips, click here.
For our Konak, Izmir tips, click here.
For our Urla, İzmir tips, click here.
